Day 1: Maun to Hideaways Mogotlho Safari Lodge, Khwai
Our adventure began as we picked up the last member of our group and set off towards Mogotlho Safari Lodge. As in Afrikaans, we would say, I was “kinderlik opgewonde” – childishly excited! Little did I know how perfectly our group of strangers would click.
We were just 15 minutes away from Mogotlho Lodge when our guide, Dema, received a thrilling call on the radio: a leopard had been spotted nearby. We eagerly agreed to detour, embarking on a safari rollercoaster through the bush. Along the way, we quickly snapped photos of giraffes, waterbucks, impalas, roan antelopes, buffalo, and elephants. Suddenly, another radio call informed us that the leopard had caught an impala. The rush was on!
When we finally found him, the leopard – known as Mr. Ears due to his battle-scarred ears – sat unbothered by our presence. What an incredible welcome to Mogotlho! After soaking in the moment, we headed to the lodge, ready to explore our tented accommodations.
The day ended with a magical dinner on the deck under the stars. The night brought sounds of impalas snorting, hyenas laughing, lions roaring, and even a buffalo taking a midnight swim in the stream. I drifted to sleep to the soothing sounds of nature.
Day 2: Hideaways Mogotlho Lodge, Khwai
We rose early for breakfast and an eager morning game drive. Among the many animals we saw, the highlights were two jackals feeding on a baby giraffe carcass and two hyenas with a freshly caught baby waterbuck. Our birdwatching travel companion, Fiona, enriched our experience, teaching us about the diverse bird species we encountered.
Despite our efforts to track lions, we were unsuccessful. However, we found Mr. Ears again, now full and content from his meal. After a relaxing afternoon, we set off on another game drive, and this time, we found the lions – full and sleeping contently.
As the sun set, we enjoyed sundowners with a herd of elephants drinking nearby. After dinner, some of us joined on a night drive, which turned out to be an unexpectedly eventful experience, featuring wildebeest, elephants in distress, and a glass of Amarula under the stars. I ended the night listening to a hippo grazing around my tent.
Day 3: Hideaways Mogotlho Lodge to Khwai Airstrip
We enjoyed a leisurely morning before departing Mogotlho after breakfast. Our mokoro excursion was a highlight, offering a serene view of nature and a close encounter with a playful elephant. After coffee by the water, we headed to the Khwai Airstrip, where we bid farewell to our Mogotlho guide Roy.
A short flight brought us to Kasane Airport, where we set out on a Chobe boat cruise. We were delighted by the abundance of wildlife, including elephants, buffalo, hippos, and crocodiles. As the sun set, we arrived at Camp Kuzuma, where we were greeted warmly by the staff, and treated to a delicious dinner.
Day 4: Hideaways Camp Kuzuma
The next morning, we awoke to the sound of drums, signaling it was time for our morning game drive. Wrapped in blankets and clutching hot water bottles, we set off with our knowledgeable guide, Elti. We saw numerous animals, including a black-backed jackal with her pups and a side-striped jackal.
Back at the lodge, we spent the afternoon relaxing, watching animals visit the waterhole including many elephants, roan, and various other antelope. The late afternoon game drive brought us stunning views of giraffes, a large herd of elephants, and a breathtaking sundowner spot. Dinner was a delightful boma feast, and the night was filled with laughter and stories.
Day 5: Hideaways Camp Kuzuma to Hideaways Nantwich Lodge
After a leisurely morning, we departed for the Panda Border, a small border post between Botswana and Zimbabwe, and said goodbye to our wonderful guides. I was pleasantly surprised at how quickly it took us to cross this border post. Our new guide, Ndaba, took us to Nantwich Lodge, where we were welcomed with singing and smiles. We immediately felt welcome and part of the Nantwich family. After settling in our rooms, we set off on our afternoon game drive which featured a big herd of elephants and a pride of lions. Sundowners at Big Toms provided a picturesque setting with elephants and zebras in the distance.
Dinner under the stars was another highlight, with each meal at Nantwich set in a different spot, enhancing the unique experience. We ended the night by the fire, sharing stories and preparing for the next day’s adventures.
Day 6: Hideaways Nantwich Full Day
An early start led to a full-day game drive with a continental breakfast and exciting wildlife sightings, including three cheetahs. A safari walk with guides Julius and Lovemore taught us about tracking animals and understanding the environment. Julius and Lovemore demonstrated how to estimate an elephant’s shoulder height by measuring the track of its front foot, explaining that the shoulder height is 2.5 times the size of the track. We discovered that we had crossed paths with a very large elephant! After the walk Ndaba came to pick us up and we continued with our game drive. Lunch at Deteema Dam was a perfect setting with three herds of elephants and various other animals.
We ended the day with sundowners at The Hidden Eye, Nantwich’s private hide, and a boma dinner by the pool under the nearly full moon. A night drive revealed numerous nocturnal birds and a porcupine, capping off an eventful day.
Day 7: Hideaways Nantwich Lodge to Victoria Falls
A surprise bush breakfast set the tone for our final full day. Ndaba skillfully kept the surprise hidden, and we laughed at our speculations once we arrived. Saying goodbye to the Nantwich team was bittersweet, and we headed to Vic Falls, excited yet sad as our journey neared its end.
Ilala Lodge was our base, and after freshening up, we enjoyed lunch at 3 Monkeys restaurant. A sunset boat cruise on The River Odyssey offered breathtaking views of the sunset and the rising full moon. The Boma dinner and drum show was an unforgettable experience, filled with delicious food and lively drumming. With so many different dishes to choose from, it was hard to decide what to eat. A few of us even tried the mopane worm and earned our certificates.
Day 8: Departure Day
Our final day together began with a tour of Victoria Falls, where we marveled at the power and beauty of the falls. Initially, we thought we wouldn’t need raincoats, given the heat and doubting there was enough water to warrant them, but when we reached points 9 and 10, it felt like standing in a shower or heavy rain! I couldn’t believe the incredible spray of the falls.
Saying goodbye to our group at the airport was emotional, after such a wonderful trip with ‘strangers-who-became-friends’, but I was excited for my extended trip to Bumbusi.
Extended Trip to Hideaways Bumbusi Wilderness Camp
After saying goodbye to Ndaba, Blessing and I set off on a game drive to Bumbusi. I was once again impressed by the knowledge of the guides. Blessing was patient, stopping for every sighting, including birds, which I had only recently become interested in.
During the drive, we saw elephants and hippos, and Blessing explained many things to me. We stopped at a couple of sundowner spots; the first had a breathtaking 360-degree view. As the sun began to set at the second spot, Blessing brought out snacks and drinks, and we watched the sunset together. We noticed a vulture in the distance and decided to check it out the next day.
Upon arriving at Bumbusi, I was warmly welcomed, and hot water was prepared for me to wash my hands. After freshening up in my room, I signaled that I was ready for dinner by placing my lantern outside. Blessed, the head guide and manager, joined me for dinner. The food, especially the local fish, was exceptionally good, thanks to Talent, the aptly-named chef, and his assistant.
After dinner, I enjoyed some coffee by the fire before retiring to my room, exhausted but happy after a long day.
Day 9: Hideaways Bumbusi Wilderness Camp
I woke up early to Blessing bringing coffee to my room. After breakfast, we set off for a gorge walk with Blessed and Blessing, spotting five eagle species on the way. At the gorge, we tracked rhinos and saw petrified trees, klipspringers, and even a python trail. We had a thrilling encounter with a kudu bull and saw many animal tracks.
We lost track of time but still stopped for a coffee break with a “ranger’s coffee” (coffee with Amarula). Back at the lodge, we saw bat-eared foxes and then visited the Bumbusi ruins, discussing its history. We ended the day with a stunning sundowner and a surprise bush dinner under the stars, capped by seeing a falling star.
Day 10: Hideaways Bumbusi to Victoria Falls
After a hearty breakfast, I bid farewell to the Bumbusi team. Blessing and I set out on a half-day game drive toward Nantwich, seeing buffalo, elephants, and giraffes. Upon reaching Nantwich, I said goodbye to Blessing and headed to Victoria Falls Safari Club. The views of the waterhole were amazing, and the staff was incredibly friendly. I relaxed before dinner at Shearwater Explorers Village and enjoyed the Simunye theatre show.
Day 11: Departure
The trip concluded with my return home, reflecting on the incredible experiences and memories made.
